Fashion Week Scorecard: Marc Jacobs
The Show: Marc Jacobs
The Scene: The Lexington Avenue Armory where, under low lighting and cardboard-shrouded walls, a craft-paper-wrapped wood frame structure was unwrapped by Marc Jacobs and his business partner Robert Duffy to reveal all 56 models in their full looks (cue the first spine tingle and tear).
The Celebs: Per Marc's decree--NONE
The Music: Frederic Sanchez mixed covers of "Somewhere Over The Rainbow"
The Look: Leave it to Marc Jacobs to do a complete 180 from his spring riot of color, layering, patterns, and uber-accessorizing to stage one of the most quietly powerful shows the fashion crowd has witnessed in a very long time. To say the clothes were simple doesn't begin to get at their beauty or their strength or help to understand what set them apart.
It was in choosing the precise palette of neutrals, the ultimate spare shapes and then adding the most perfect luxe details that the show transcended the sum of its parts. In mushroom, gray, camel and mustard there were full, '40s-style mid-calf skirts; dresses and culottes; coats and jackets with the slightest volume and gently-curving lapels; sumptuous shearlings; lush fur trims; sequins on straightforward sheaths and cardigans; ethereal dresses with trompe l'oeil bows; and even gowns that could go straight to Hollywood for Oscar night. Many of the small top or chain handle bags were paneled in fur, croc, ostrich ,or sequins while mary janes, pointy-toe pumps and granny boots had low, sensible heels and should be pre-ordered ASAP as they will, no doubt, be sold out before they even hit stores.
The Models: Like the crowd, a no frills assortment. Some cast right off the street and a surprise appearance by renown French stylist Camille Bidault-Waddington.
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