How to Go Darker for Fall: Tips From Oscar Blandi's Lead Colorist Kyle White
Lately I've been seeing pink, purple and blue hair everywhere—from the heads of my favorites celebs to models on the runways of New York Fashion Week. But I'm saving the bright hues for the warmer months because this fall, it's all about going dark. As someone who has never dyed her hair, the thought of going darker incites a lot of questions. So I turned to Kyle White, lead colorist at Oscar Blandi Salon, for some expert tips and advice.
Lucky: What is the most popular hair color your clients have been requesting this fall?
Kyle White: I usually get requests for darker and warmer hair color after the summer, but this fall I'm getting girls that are going from light to dark in record numbers. During winter months the sun is further away from the earth and casts a less yellow light, and we also spend less time outside so skin loses that sun-kissed glow. The contrast of darker hair will bring color back to your face, and make light eyes pop. Dark hair also reflects more light than paler shades, so the shine will be ridiculous!
What tips would you give to someone who is about to go darker?
When darkening hair, you don't need to use the ammonia and peroxide necessary when going light. The process is all deposit color, so opt for a vegetable dye or semi-permanent hair color with a lot of emollients and proteins. These dyes leave hair feeling great with tons of shine, and are more easily changeable than permanent dyes that have heavy chemicals.
Start by going one or two shades darker at a time. This will allow for a more subtle progression so that it’s less of a shock to yourself and your friends and family. Plus if you decide you don't like the results, it's easier to change.
If you’re a highlight girl but still want to be part of this trend, try adding lowlights to the mix. Even a darker gloss can be enough to enhance your complexion and bring out your features.
Dark shades can read heavy and solid, especially on blunt hair cuts. You can solve this by adding a few very subtle tone-on-tone highlights around the frame of the face and top styling area. I call these invisi-lights because people can't really see if it's highlights in the hair or just the way the light is hitting your head.
In your opinion, what shade of brown best complements pale skin?
In my opinion, the shades of brown that best complement pale skin are rich shades like dark chocolate and walnut. Avoid flat, inky hues.
Click through below to see what at-home color and color maintenance products Kyle recommend for brunettes and brunettes-to-be.
"If your color feels too dark you can try stripping out some dye with a clarifying shampoo, or in extreme cases try a liquid detergent like Dawn. Always be sure to follow any clarifying treatment with a deep conditioning masque.
Neutralize brassy tones in dark brunettes by doing a color rinse with grape Kool-Aid.
Coffee rinses are good for removing unwanted red tones from medium brown shades."
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