Lucky Hits New York Fashion Week
what we’re seeing and loving on the runway and out on the streets.

Cool Paris girls are currently bundled up in fur coats and vests reminiscent of Jane Birkin in the '70s—unfussy and simple, worn with peasant blouses and high-waisted wide-leg jeans. Barbara Bui tapped into that exact look in her fall collection with a series of brilliant fur pieces.
—Jen Ford, Fashion News Director
We all agree: The Isabel Marant show is one of the events the Lucky team looks forward to most. She always sends clothes out on the runway that girls want to wear right this very second—Laurie Trott's theory is that Marant is a little bit psychic.
And this season was no exception: cool shearling-trimmed jackets, slouchy trousers, comfy-looking buffalo plaid dresses, and gingham tops. I wish it all were in the shops this week and not next fall!
—Jen Ford, Fashion News Director
Martin Margiela did some wacky stuff at his show—one shoulder, one leg loose-knit bodysuits, for instance—but he always offsets the wilder things with beautifully tailored jackets and fluid dresses. This season, I wasn't in the best mood for it, since someone had spilled red wine all over my dress. But then (and apologies for the dark picture) I became fully obsessed with these boots, with the full-length exposed back zipper. I can see myself zipping them up, grabbing an oversize python-print clutch and running out the door. And there was this other styling trick I loved as well: boots plus thick knit socks, plus super-skinny pants equals, in my opinion, a perfect fall look.
—Laurie Trott, Senior Fashion Editor
I'm seeing a lot of ideas that have a handcrafted feel: chunky knits, fringing, toggle buttons, that kind of thing. For example, Véronique Leroy had multicolor loop-knit coats that reminded me of French fashion photos from the '70's. This always happens-just when it's almost spring I'm ready for fall again.
—Laurie Trott, Senior Fashion Editor
I would bet money—or even my own knit cape if I had one—that I saw this cape at the Veronique Branquinho show two years ago. I loved it then and I still love it now, on this girl who offsets its countryish vibe with skinny gray jeans and Betty boop heels. I still want one.
—Laurie Trott, Senior Fashion Editor
We're all a little A.P.C.-obsessed at Lucky, so their collection previews are one of the high points of Paris fashion week. And as usual this season I wanted it all: The perfect little dresses, the fur-hooded parkas, the knit sweaters. I was especially enamored with this 60's-style paisley miniskirt (as you may remember from my Yohji Yamamoto post, i'm back on color) and these booties, which are a spin on a paddock boot. Suddenly, a short flat lace up bootie feels very new and refreshing.
—Laurie Trott, Senior Fashion Editor
Okay, one more A.P.C.-related post: Julia Topolski and I were shopping in the Marais this past Sunday and we hit A.P.C.'s boutique there. We tried on half the store and I was about to walk out empty-handed when this salesgirl cruised past me in the best spring dress ever. The big pockets, the built-in belt, the dropped-waist—I had to have one. Now I do.
—Laurie Trott, Senior Fashion Editor
The Yohji Yamamoto show is always great and romantic, and this one was no exception. I was particularly inspired by the unexpected color combinations: the rusty red with green and the yellow-and-gray check with tweed (look closely!) were my favorites. The finale was brilliant, all sophisticated schoolboy overcoats with straps that attached around the shoulder so the coat could hang freely. And I loved the flat messenger bags: They're part of his collaboration with Hermes.
—Laurie Trott, Senior Fashion Editor
I love looking at old photos of Cacharel clothing from the 1960s: The pieces were light and feminine, and usually involved chiffon. It was all just really pretty. And that's exactly how the clothes looked again Saturday evening at the fall preview for the brand, with Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto debuting their first season for the brand.
The London-based duo (who also have their own line, Eley Kishimoto) have brought with them their signature slightly kooky sense of humor?check out, for example, the heads on these mannequins. And these two pieces really hit the mark for me: a bracelet-sleeved tweed overcoat, and the sweetest wispy dropwaist dress.
—Jen Ford, Fashion News Director
London
A lace trench coat seems so wear-once-a-year fancy to me, but London-based Canadian designer Erdem made one that changed my mind—the front is crochet lace, the back is a regular trench. He proved it could be totally city-appropriate by pairing it with slick black trousers.
—Jen Ford, Fashion News Director
Gothic folk was the theme at Luella Bartley—model after model walked the runway in black dresses, pointy hats, and colored tights, matched up with peasant tops and clog heels. The best styling trick: a cocktail dress with a little tweed blazer thrown over it to ward off the chill (or to make it less revealing). And fueling my obsession with London shoes, Luella's clog heels—some of which had corset lacing up the front, others with a little leather bow—stole the show.
—Jen Ford, Fashion News Director
A few years ago, the East End area called Spitalfields was best known for its curry houses (dotted along Brick Lane) and its Sunday indie-designer market. While it still retains its on-the-cusp vibe, it has started to attract some more fashiony inhabitants, like Andrew Buckler's airy new store. As I mentioned on Monday, Buckler specializes in menswear, but his pieces make excellent boyish—but still slim and flattering—staples for girls.
Buckler, 35 Artillery Ln., London E1
—Jen Ford, Fashion News Director
Back at the Spring 2008 shows, I kept seeing big patchy pockets on full prairie skirts—they were cute, but slightly unrealistic. Now that we're in Fall 2008, that's changing: At a viewing of Topshop's Unique line today (their higher-end label), the same look on loose, drapey dresses and skirts was utterly wearable. I've also always loved the idea of skinny black leather leggings paired with a chunky, oversize sweater, but no one's ever made a truly wearable pair until now: Topshop's have a practical four-way stretch, so they really fit well. I loved seeing them styled with this oversize knit cape-coat.
—Jen Ford, Fashion News Director
Girls in London are obsessed with headbands, and they're wearing them across the forehead, like Erin Wasson did at the Alexander Wang after-party in New York. The trend is so big that VV Rouleaux, a famous trimmings store that stocks every kind of ribbon, tassel, and charm you could possibly want, designed 140 styles of headband for the shows this week, and they've set up a stand in Topshop to sell them.
I popped into their Marylebone Lane boutique and had two custom-made: a simple skinny band wrapped in black satin and covered with tiny vintage pearls, and a slightly thicker one covered in a cream crochet lace with delicate floral petals. My photographer Elizabeth even managed to convince them to make her a necklace out of layers of velvet and crochet lace!
VV Rouleaux, 102 Marylebone Ln., London W1,
44-20-722- 5179 www.vvrouleaux.com
—Jen Ford, Fashion News Director
Fancy tights are all over the catwalks in London—at Paul Smith, there were painterly black brushstrokes on a cream background, and at Betty Jackson, clusters of delicate Swarovski crystals wound up the leg of plum tights.
I could absolutely see wearing them with a full knee-length skirt or pretty floral sack dress, just the way Betty sent them down the catwalk.
—Jen Ford, Fashion News Director
Marios Schwab's futuristic designs are often hard to translate into real life, but he came up with a styling trick I really want to try: You know all those sheer T-shirts you wear layered up? Marios did it with thin dresses of varying lengths and shapes—here, he's layered a dark navy skinny dress over a lighter blue one with a more floaty handkerchief hem.
Jen Ford, Fashion News Director
In between the strictly tailored suits and '50s-style dresses (very befitting the location of the show, a parlor room at the old-fashioned Claridge's hotel in Mayfair), Paul Smith presented a bit of totally appealing, rather feminine grunge: I loved the combination of this knitted beanie hat, chunky sweater, and knit skirt, which had a stiff silk underlayer peaking out from the skirt hem. It's in the low 50s here, and this cozy-dressy hybrid is just what I want to be wearing tonight.
—Jen Ford, Fashion News Director
As I mentioned on Monday, Avsh Alom Gur, a former designer for Donna Karan and Nicole Farhi, has taken the creative helm at Ossie Clark, and his first show was totally worth the hype. It was the modernized references that he made to the original designer's work I loved most. Take this maxi dress, which has all the glamour of one of Clark's own designs from the '70s, but Gur narrowed the silhouette, did it in a very soft silk, and added a plunging V-neck that makes it kind of Studio 54-sexy. I'm a huge Clark fan—I started collecting his dresses a while back—and I would scoop this one up in a second, too.
—Jen Ford, Fashion News Director
Sloane Street has always been reserved for the Big Brands (Armani, Prada, and the like)—it's in the same neighborhood as Harrods, after all. But yesterday East End-based jewelry designer Lara Bohinc opened up shop. The Slovenian-born designer's modernist and graphic bracelets, earrings, and necklaces are a cool counterpoint to the iconic jewels you'll find at Cartier and Tiffany & Co. across the street (as is the all-black interior of her store, lit with white neon-pipe lights). I wanted tons of her pieces, unsurprisingly. Up next for Bohinc? A shoe line.
—Jen Ford, Fashion News Director
At my first day of shows here in London, I can't stop staring at the shoes. At Sinha-Stanic, these two-tone fuchsia patent leather peep-toe booties with a chunky '40s-style heel were just incredibly cool.
A similar chunkiness caught my eye this afternoon at Emma Cook, where the lug-sole black ankle boots had insets of black lace—I'm desperately coveting them for next fall.
In general, Cook's collection was beautifully dark; I especially loved the sheer prairie dresses covered in printed gray lace and the citified tie-dye pieces she paired with trapeze olive military jackets.
—Jen Ford, Fashion News Director
I start getting excited about London Fashion Week days before it starts. In fact, on the first day of New York Fashion Week, I was already thinking about London and what I'll be seeing there both on and off the runway. Here's a peek the events on my schedule you'll be reading about this week:
- Ossie Clark is relaunching for fall '08 with young local designer Avsh Alom Gur at the helm—the appointment was a shock to a lot of people in the industry, but I think Gur's languid 1930s sensibility could fit in beautifully with Ossie's iconic long-and-flowy dresses.
- Selfridges will be unveiling a "World of Stella" at its Oxford Street store, and the title alone set my heart racing. Rooms upon rooms of Stella McCartney dresses, denim, and her new line of lingerie—what could be more appealing?
- New York-based Brit Andrew Buckler, who opened his second store in SoHo two weeks ago, is opening his first in London with a special performance by the Paddingtons. If you want the perfect pair of boyfriend jeans (or really any borrowed-from-the-boys piece), look no further than Buckler. He's the best! —Jen Ford, Fashion News Director
New York
I've been seeing lots of zipper accents on the runways this week, but none as perfectly pretty as the ones adorning Willow's sophisticated collection. The thin gold zippers on this dress looked almost like a delicate chain necklace slung across the front.
—Heather Summerville, Senior Associate Fashion Editor
Y-3 recreated a glacial palace for its presentation, complete with a wall of ice bricks. It was the best one yet, as far as I'm concerned—packed with woolly scarves in bright oversize check and signature slouchy Yohji Yamamoto trousers. Unfortunately, the show was outdoors in a parking garage on the Hudson River. At night. Thoughtfully, ushers handed out these awesome Hothands Handwarmers to keep us toasty until the show started. I slipped mine into my gloves—an accessory for my accessories, if you will.
—Laurie Trott, Senior Fashion Editor
Vintage-inspired headgear is definitely one of the biggest off-the-runway trends this week. At the Marc by Marc Jacobs show, illustrator Ginny Branch wore a pale pink cloche covered in silk flower petals, and at Rodnik, I adored this piece, which has a great headband-earmuff-hat hybrid quality.
—Jen Ford, Fashion News Director
A while back, our market director Anne Keane came to the office in a pretty white dress with opaque black tights—and I totally fell in love with the idea. So it makes sense that I'd be smitten with this Karen Walker look, too: The brown shoes and belt are really inspired flourishes.
—Noria Morales, Associate Fashion Editor
Even though the Betsey Johnson show is held in the biggest tent in Bryant Park, I always feel like I'm at the party of an effortlessly cool friend (who just happens to know everyone). She kicked off her 30th anniversary show with three bongo-beating models and a series of great beatnik-inspired looks. My pick is this long, fringed purple vest&38212;it's one of those interesting, statement-making pieces that surprisingly goes with almost anything, from jeans to a sexy black dress.
—Heather Summerville, Senior Associate Fashion Editor
My favorite styling tip of the day: Instead of just wrapping a scarf around my neck, I'll be keeping cozy by draping one around my head like they did at the Charlotte Ronson show. I think it looks unbelievably ladylike and romantic, in a Doctor Zhivago-ish way.
—Suzanne Singer, Associate Accessories Editor
Front row etiquette usually demands remaining stiff and emotionless as model after model strolls by, so it was so deeply satisfying to sit near Sean Lennon at the Three As Four show. Throughout the show, he whistled and clapped—loudly—and the rest of the crowd joined in.
—Heather Summerville, Senior Associate Fashion Editor

























































