paris
Cire Trudon
I spend my mortgage at Cire Trudon. Its candles come in the most amazing colors (I like the green, pink and yellow ones) and scents, like Mademoiselle de la Valliere, a sensual tuberose inspired by Louis XIV’s mistress. I try to have these fragrances in all of my homes. 78 rue de Seine, 33-1-4326-4650, ciretrudon.com
Astier de Villatte
The most gorgeous tableware is at Astier de Villatte. One of its best pieces is this little ceramic saucer with a heart painted on it, which you can use to store your jewelry or whatever. I’d put them all over the house if I could, but they’re not cheap. 173 rue St.-Honoré, 33-1-4260-7413, astierdevillatte.com
Fragonard
Before a vacation, I dash to Fragonard. They have a pretty selection of little embroidered pouches to hold your shoes, lingerie, bathing suits and God-knows-what. 196 Blvd. Saint-Germain, 33-1-4284-1212, fragonard.com
Ban Sabai
The best foot massage outside of Thailand is at Ban Sabai. You sit in a huge armchair and you feel like you’re in a temple, but you’re really in the Marais. I’m lucky—this place is right next door to my house. 12 rue de Lesdiguières, 33-1-4271-3710, bansabai.fr
L’Entrecôte
There is no menu at L’Entrecôte. It offers only steak, but it’s the best on the planet. It’s served with a salad, fries and dessert. They do not take reservations, and it is the only place I will ever stand in line for. 20 rue Saint-Benôit, 33-1-4549-1600, relaisentrecote.fr
Karry Berreby
For the coolest vintage jewelry, visit Karry Berreby. She has a very specific, stylish eye. You go to her house in the very fashionable Eighth Arrondissement and choose your piece. I got my incredible Balenciaga cuff from her, as well as a gold necklace from the ’30s. She makes her own unique jewelry too. By appointment only. 33-1-778-25-27-50, karryberreby.com
Giambattista Valli
Giambattista Valli’s boutique is the epitome of luxury. Its pale pink walls, mirrored tables and 17th-century pillars make you think you’re in a couture salon. It seems appropriate, given that his ready-to-wear collection fits as if it were custom-made. 30 rue Boissy d’Anglas, 33-1-4017-0588, giambattistavalli.com
Soeur
Though aimed at chic youngsters (my teenage daughters go nuts for the floral tie-strap tops and distressed denim cutoffs) the nouveau bohemian wear here has been known to make mothers—myself included—go nuts too.
Tabio
A trip to this pea-size hosiery store--the Japanese brand's first French branch--is the most delightful route to a refreshed sock drawer. Pick from a Pantone array of cotton and cashmere options and--my favorite part--have pairs embroidered with a monogram. 15 rue Vieille du Temple (4th arr.), 33-1-4278-2038, tabio.fr
Upla
I love an English-style schoolgirl satchel and—strangely—no one does them better than this heritage French handbag company. Shapes and colors range widely at the flagship—from plaid and messenger to flannel and cross-body—but they’re all consistently affordable.
