paris
Ines de la Fressange—runway model, muse to Karl Lagerfeld, brand ambassador for Roger Vivier, French fashion icon and newly minted author—reveals her favorite places to shop in the City of Light.
Cire Trudon
I spend my mortgage at Cire Trudon. Its candles come in the most amazing colors (I like the green, pink and yellow ones) and scents, like Mademoiselle de la Valliere, a sensual tuberose inspired by Louis XIV’s mistress. I try to have these fragrances in all of my homes. 78 rue de Seine, 33-1-4326-4650, ciretrudon.com
Astier de Villatte
The most gorgeous tableware is at Astier de Villatte. One of its best pieces is this little ceramic saucer with a heart painted on it, which you can use to store your jewelry or whatever. I’d put them all over the house if I could, but they’re not cheap. 173 rue St.-Honoré, 33-1-4260-7413, astierdevillatte.com
Fragonard
Before a vacation, I dash to Fragonard. They have a pretty selection of little embroidered pouches to hold your shoes, lingerie, bathing suits and God-knows-what. 196 Blvd. Saint-Germain, 33-1-4284-1212, fragonard.com
Ban Sabai
The best foot massage outside of Thailand is at Ban Sabai. You sit in a huge armchair and you feel like you’re in a temple, but you’re really in the Marais. I’m lucky—this place is right next door to my house. 12 rue de Lesdiguières, 33-1-4271-3710, bansabai.fr
L’Entrecôte
There is no menu at L’Entrecôte. It offers only steak, but it’s the best on the planet. It’s served with a salad, fries and dessert. They do not take reservations, and it is the only place I will ever stand in line for. 20 rue Saint-Benôit, 33-1-4549-1600, relaisentrecote.fr
Karry Berreby
For the coolest vintage jewelry, visit Karry Berreby. She has a very specific, stylish eye. You go to her house in the very fashionable Eighth Arrondissement and choose your piece. I got my incredible Balenciaga cuff from her, as well as a gold necklace from the ’30s. She makes her own unique jewelry too. By appointment only. 33-1-778-25-27-50, karryberreby.com
Giambattista Valli
Giambattista Valli’s boutique is the epitome of luxury. Its pale pink walls, mirrored tables and 17th-century pillars make you think you’re in a couture salon. It seems appropriate, given that his ready-to-wear collection fits as if it were custom-made. 30 rue Boissy d’Anglas, 33-1-4017-0588, giambattistavalli.com
Soeur
Though aimed at chic youngsters (my teenage daughters go nuts for the floral tie-strap tops and distressed denim cutoffs) the nouveau bohemian wear here has been known to make mothers—myself included—go nuts too.
Tabio
A trip to this pea-size hosiery store--the Japanese brand's first French branch--is the most delightful route to a refreshed sock drawer. Pick from a Pantone array of cotton and cashmere options and--my favorite part--have pairs embroidered with a monogram. 15 rue Vieille du Temple (4th arr.), 33-1-4278-2038, tabio.fr
Upla
I love an English-style schoolgirl satchel and—strangely—no one does them better than this heritage French handbag company. Shapes and colors range widely at the flagship—from plaid and messenger to flannel and cross-body—but they’re all consistently affordable.


